The torque converter is not likely to fix this issue….

Most likely it is the rear engine mount. You need to see if there is an airgap at the rear engine mount…. I wrote about this in an earlier blog and even included a photo in the article of what that airgap should look like….

If the mount has failed and there is no air gap, the sensation, going into ECO that you are feeling is likely in that area.

Ed

We have a certified 2007 Odyessey EX-L with 76,000 miles on it. At 63,000 mile Honda replaced the torque converter and updated the software because we complained about a surge that followed the ECO light coming on. Honda picked up the $1279 bill. The problem was much improved after the converter was changed.

Now at 76,000 miles the problem is back. Sometimes you can not feel the change when the ECO light comes on and other times there is a head bobbing bump about 3 seconds after the light comes on. It seems to be the worst on flat roads or when there is a slight decline.

I took the van back to the dealer Saturday. The work order stated” Customer states that there is a pretty good surge when ECO engages. Seems to be excessive. Like mount is loose. Best felt under 65 mph.” The Tech wrote ” Felt torque jutter when 35-40 mph. Need to replace torque converter. Part to be covered under Honda care. Will need for aprox 2 days.” They said they have torque converters in stock. I told them it was just replaced in May and asked for the Honda America number. They seemed surprised and told me not to worry about the $10 dollars for the wipper blade. I have not set up the next apointment.

Can this be right? The new converter lasted only 13,000 miles! They never told me if the motor mount was ok or not.

What do you think I should do?

Thank you,
Fred

Just wanted to say thank you for your great advice. Just replaced the rear motor mount and the vibration has stopped! I am also on my second transmission fluid change, and the problem with the shudder has stopped!! I will do one more change and hope the problem doesn’t return. This was the best Christmas present I received this year, saved me around $1,800!!!!

Thank you for your prompt reply! Just wish I was closer to TN (live in Houston TX), so I could drive it over to the shop and have you fix the rear mount. In one of your earlier posts you said you could drive with a broken mount until you can see out of the rear view mirror. So I assume the mount doesn’t cause any damage to the engine, correct? Also I brought our van in to the local shop as I thought the transmission was going out. When it shifts into fourth gear, at 40 mph the van will shake. If I let off of the gas it stops, and I can then give it gas again with no shaking. I had the transmission fluid drained and filled and this seems to stop this problem for about 1,000 miles. Could this be the torque converter or the transmission? Or would the motor mount cause this as well?

The rear motor mount is the only one of the 4 that we normally replace. The only exception to that is every-now-and-then we will replace the right side engine mount (the one in front of the timing belt covers), but that is rare. I doubt you need the additional mounts… Also, the shop you are using seems a little excessive on the rear mount. The rear motor mount itself costs about $600.00 and labor added makes it almost a $900 replacement cost at our shop, Accurate Automotive. The $1150 price seems a little high. You are correct about the other mounts in that visual inspection for tears in the rubber is all you need to do…. If they are not torn, they do not need to be replaced…. It’s that simple…. The ONLY MOUNT THAT HAS FLUID IN IT IS THE REAR MOTOR MOUNT….. As far as the axles (drive shafts as you identified it) they normally will sling a little grease from the rubber boots and this is acceptable. In fact, there is no way that you can prevent the slinging of grease after the axles are a few years old. Unless you have a clicking noise when turning or excessive vibration ON ACCELERATION, you no not need axle replacement. Finally, brake fluid should simply be removed from the master cylinder and replaced every 30,000 miles…. HOWEVER, DO NOT FLUSH THE BRAKE SYSTEM WHEN DOING THIS…. All that will do is pull debris into the lower chambers of the master cylinder, and you will then be replacing a master cylinder within a few months because of a sinking brake pedal in hot temps. We never change / replace the power steering fluid in our shop and I do not recommend it…. Hope this helps.

Ed

I have read through the entire blog and there is lots of great info, thank you!! When my local Honda dealership told me the motor mount was causing the vibration when ECO engages I was skeptical. After reading your blog I now have faith again in my local Honda dealership/repair shop. I do however have a few questions for you. First my local shop suggested replacing the front, back, and side motor mounts at a cost of $2,524.87 (includes parts, labor, and tax; front-$1,037.50, rear-$1,145.81, side-$341.56). Does this seem excessive to you? They told me the entire engine needs to be raised up while on the lift, and this required a lot of work. Is this a true statement, or can the engine be supported and each mount changed one at a time? The van is a 2005 EX-L and has 160,400 miles on it, we have been very happy with it so far but $2,500 seems a bit much for motor mounts. Is there a way to test the front mount to see if it needs to be replaced? I visually inspected the side mount, and there is no tear in the rubber, so can assume it is good? The tech said he noticed some fluid splatter on the body frame near the mount, and said it must be from the side mount, “The seal must be leaking.” Is there any validity to the fluid claim?
I am getting ready to go on a road trip for Christmas, and wondered if driving round trip 1,100 miles would damage the engine in any way? The tech seemed to think it would be okay, but wanted to get your thoughts. The tech also said the right driveshaft should be replaced as it has spun the grease out. I viewed the driveshaft and it did have grease around it, but have not had any problems with handling. Can this repair be sidelined until it causes problems? Lastly the tech said the power steering and brake fluids needed to be flushed, due to the color of the fluid. Is this really necessary? Appreciate any incite you can offer.

It was very interesting reading the above comments. When my 2006 Honda Odyssy goes into ECO mode, should it keep going in and out of ECO mode while you are driving or should it settle in and stay in ECO for awhile? I appreciate any comment you may have.

The rear motor mount is the biggest / most common problem with your ’06 Odyssey and has been the actual problem in several drivability issues where many things were blamed / mis-diagnosed (ie. transmissions and torque converters).

Occasionally, the right engine mount can also be damaged / worn, but this can be seen in a visual inspection. Simply shine a flashlight on the rubber mount (located on the side of the passenger strut tower and in front of the timing belt covers) and see if the rubber mount is torn…. If it is not torn, it’s ok.

As for the rear motor mount, it needs to be replaced in an enviroment where the vehicle can be raised up on a lift…… The old saying, “folks, don’t try this at home” comes to mind.

The mount itself is very expensive (for a mount). If you want to purchase it from us, the price of the rear mount is $543 plus shipping…. Just call Troy @ (615) 220-0333 if you want to order it from us.

It took a couple of hours of my time to prove that I was not crazy. Driving down Tx yesterday, I had a drone that I couldn’t stand, even though no one else could hear it. G;ad to know I was not crazy.

I have a 2006 Ody Touring, great car, but shudders at about 75mph. I didn’t check the RPMs but I was pretty sure it was a mount issue (Hoping for a mount issue rather that a Torque converter problem.
You guys were on the money! The previous owner of this van was an absolute idiot. My mount is so bad, that the rubber bushing is virtually obliterated. Its started eating into the the frame where its mounted to. Sad…
The dealer yesterday balanced& rotated the tires but the oissue was still there, so needless to say, I am very appreciative of the input you have given us 05-08′s with 60k+ miles. I am sure that’s when lots of these issues seem to manifest themselves.
Questins:

1.Given that the dealer may not in this case pay for replacement, do you know of any place to source these mounts.

2. Is it advisable to replace the rest of the mounts. As an engineer, I know vibration can wreak havoc, and fatigue from this mount failure likely caused failure in other mounts as well. I have seen the gap test for the rear (main) mount, but no tests for other mounts. Are there bushings or rubber boots on them as well that can be visually inspected.

3. On a scale, how hard is this to do myself. I don’t have a impact wrench or considerable engine tear down experience but have changed lots of spark plugs,sensors and radiators on a few late model cars. Nothing in the Timing belt or overhaul scale. Also, I know that the engine has to be held. Can a regular jack sand be used?

Thanks for all the input. I’d be down there on a whim were it not for the fact that I live quite a distance from TN.